DATE: 15th July 2024. PLACE: Frameless Space. TIME: 19.00
I: Vianney Le Caer
The Institute Marangoni London is one of the capital’s leading and most innovative fashion schools. And this years show based around the theme Define Identities saw ten selected students were tasked with designing six looks for their final collection, and were expected to deliver works deeply introspective of their own sense of identity, and they didn’t disappoint taking the bar to another level. The collections reflected Institute Marangoni’s global approach. There were dreamy colour-block pastels, structured shoulder pads and extravagant prints, ruched tulle, deconstructed shirts and even a couple of giant safety pins… So if this is the future of fashion, we’re all due a wardrobe glow-up.
Iccha Manav Bajaj
Theo Moraes Garcia de Campos. Collection As the Solid Meets the Fluid
As the Solid Meets the Fluid, designed by Theo Moraes Garcia de Campos, addresses fabric waste by transforming it into an upcycling fashion statement.
Inspired by the rough texture of rocks and the delicate movement of water, this new designer repurposes fabric scraps from London garment manufacturers and dead stock into oversized designs to exaggerate proportions.
In Theo Moraes Garcia de Campos’s graduate collection, flowy draped trousers in lightweight fabrics contrast with a bold bomber and dark cape featuring crunched pleated fabric manipulations, raw edges, and heavyweight fabrics styled with a Brazilian fisherman hat.
Hityshi Dwarkanath
Punn Viravaidhya. Collection: The State of Being Distinct
The State of Being Distinct, translates his passion for modified Japanese car culture into a unique sense of fashion design.
For this young designer, deconstructing and composing garments is akin to assembling the mechanical parts of a car.
His innovative designs use unconventional fabrics such as car seat materials and carbon fibre, incorporating harnesses, seatbelts, gloves, and reflectors into silhouettes inspired by traditional Japanese workwear, merging them with contemporary design.
Jayna Jain
Tara Adineh. Collection: The Absurd Hero
The Absurd Hero, interprets human existence by transitioning basket-making into garments that wrap the body like cocoons.
Inspired by the Myth of Sisyphus and Albert Camus’ philosophy of the absurd, this rising talent transforms the concept of the absurd hero’s basket of rocks into design pieces that metaphorically turn the body into stone.
Tara Adineh’s basket-weaving innovation involves transitioning knitting to flat, rigid stitched ropes, transforming a traditional craft into fabric, saving waste, and creating a sense of unity with the task.
Melania Meleloudi
Peter Thanapon Barker-Bennett Collection: Somewhere
Somewhere is a heartfelt tribute to filmmaking and photography, capturing the disillusioned emotions of coming-of-age through his garments.
Using soft pastel hues and sheer silks, this up-and-coming fashion designer presents delicate and ethereal homoerotic menswear.
Drawing inspiration from Sofia Coppola’s “Lost in Translation,” he explores themes of sensuality and homoeroticism with loose silhouettes, delicate rouge applications, and shimmering fabrics.
Much like a cinematic frame, Peter Thanaphon Barker-Bennett embeds a Tokyo night street scene onto a shirt, seamlessly blending underwear with sportswear. This fusion artfully portrays the complex struggles of youth, encompassing loneliness, sensuality, and femininity.
