Milan Men’s Collection Round Up

I am continuing my journey into the men’s collections for SS18. This time, I review some of the key looks from the Milan and Florence runways.

We saw a nod to the 90’s with designers like Versace, Marni and Diesel Black Gold, embracing this era.

Streetstyle and Sportswear are also key influencers this season.

 

Here are my top picks from Italy. 

Fausto Puglisi

This capsule collection makes references to Ancient Greek and Roman cultures. The silhouettes are Urban and Baggy, making for a perfect hip hop street look.

 

Leather bombers, motorbike jackets and nylon windbreakers were decorated with the images of antique sculptures, as well as with the designer’s Baroque graphics. The silhouettes were relaxed with baggy denim shorts, printed with a reinterpretation of a vintage Indian floral motif, shown with oversized T-shirts and hoodies.

Adding jewellery (maxi gold chains and coral necklaces) to this line-up gives it that extra splash off opulence.

Philipp Plein

What happens when you combine the worlds of wresting, boxing and pole dancing? You get this rather fantastic collection by Philipp Plein. This collection has been designed to demonstrate the functional qualities of his fast-growing luxury athletic line.

 

Plein describes this collection as not really a “fashion, fashion line, it’s an active sportswear brand. We want to make intelligent clothes. Normally function follows design – here, design follows function.”

What I love about this collection was that this was not a typical run of the mill workout collection; it features a strong palette of spanning graphic combinations of black and white to metallic and accent strips and neon pops.

prada11-mensss18-61517 2.jpg

PRADA

Mrs Prada has moved away from the flashbacks of the 70’s and has propelled us forward into the future, looking at the divide between virtual reality and reality.  Short thigh-skimming shorts paired with knee high socks, shirts with collars worn and popped, and, off course, the addition of my personal favourite item of clothing, the jumpsuit.

VERSACE

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s death, the House of Versace went back to its roots with this collection. 

 

The hits of the 90s – prints, cargo pants (breaking: they are back for 2018) and pinstripe tailoring – were presented with this new millennial customer in mind. And yes, pale pink did feature, as did a reworked Versace logo.

Diesel Black Gold

The 90s – aka the trend that keeps on giving – saw another reincarnation in Diesel’s ‘Techno Grunge’ themed show. For men, proportions were extended on jackets and shirts. Shorts were layered over leggings and worn with boots for an urban look that blurred the line between summer and winter.  

It's worth noting that the women’s collection, also shown, focused on that classic 90s look of spaghetti-strap floral dresses over fitted T-shirts.

 

MARNI

 

With only two seasons behind him, Francesco Risso is already hitting his stride. The MARNI SS18 is the perfect balance of the label’s colour play with an element of off-kilteredness. Think layered and patched stripe shirts, skew-whiff collars and clashing prints. Many looks were styled with hi-tops, ticking off the 90s accessories revival trend.

 

JW Anderson

Among the highlights in the denim-heavy collection were baggy jeans with origami folds, cool updates on the classic perfecto jacket, Pop Art-tinged patchwork sweatshirts and great Aran sweaters with nautical motifs that nodded to the designer’s Northern Irish roots.

The collection centred on updated men’s wear staples: the biker jacket, bomber, jeans jacket and hoodie, along with the regular-guy T-shirt and cargo short. 

 

Written By: Ash Allibhai